How to Store Boats, ATVs, and RVs With One Metal Structure

Most people build three separate structures for their boat, ATV, and RV — and spend three times the money doing it. There’s a smarter way.

Here’s a scenario that plays out more often than it should. An RV owner builds a metal RV cover for their Class A motorhome. A year later, they realize the boat sitting outside is deteriorating. So they price a steel garage for a boat and add another structure. Then the ATVs need coverage, so a basic 12×21 metal carport goes up alongside everything else. Three separate builds, three separate slabs, three separate permits, three separate installation crews, and a property that’s starting to look like a storage lot.

One well-planned metal building handles all three better than separate structures ever could. It costs less in total, uses less land, requires one permit, one slab, and one installation. And when it’s designed correctly from the start, it works better than three separate structures for every vehicle you’re trying to protect.

This guide covers everything: how to size it, how to plan the layout, how to configure the doors, what it costs, and what interior features are worth adding before move-in day.

Before we talk about layouts and costs, let’s answer the question that determines everything — how big does this building actually need to be?

How Much Space Do You Actually Need to Store a Boat, ATV, and RV Together?

Breaking Down the Space Each Vehicle Needs:

– RV Storage Space Requirements

The RV is almost always the largest and most demanding vehicle in the mix — and it’s the one that drives the height specification for the entire building.

Class A motorhomes typically run 35 to 45 feet long, 8 to 8.5 feet wide, and 12 to 13.5 feet tall. Add an A/C unit on the roof, and you’re looking at 13 to 14 feet at the tallest point. Class C motorhomes run shorter — 24 to 33 feet — but still require 11 to 12 feet of clearance. Fifth wheels are similarly tall at 12 to 13.5 feet.

The rule for metal RV garages is consistent: add 18 to 24 inches above your RV’s actual height to get your minimum eave height. That buffer handles rooftop accessories, allows for comfortable entry and exit, and protects the RV’s seals and trim from being clipped by the structure. For most RVs, 14-foot walls are the practical minimum. Sixteen feet is the right call for anything larger than a Class C or when you want room to grow. Beyond height, allow a minimum of 2 feet of clearance on each side of the RV inside the building.

– Boat Storage Space Requirements

A boat on a trailer is taller than most people account for. A typical 20-foot fishing boat on a trailer sits around 7 to 8 feet tall at the hull. Add a T-top or a wakeboard tower, and you’re looking at 10 to 12 feet of total height. Pontoon boats are wide — often 8.5 feet — and can run 24 feet or longer, including the trailer tongue.

Boat carports and enclosed boat bays both need side clearance for removing covers, doing maintenance, and accessing storage compartments on the trailer. A 2-foot buffer on each side is workable. Three feet is comfortable, especially if you plan to do any cleaning or work on the boat inside the building.

– ATV and UTV Storage Space Requirements

A standard ATV runs around 4 to 5 feet wide and 6 to 7 feet long. Manageable. But side-by-side UTVs run 5 to 6 feet wide and 10 to 12 feet long. A couple of UTVs side by side need 12 to 14 feet of width just for the vehicles, before accounting for any walkway between them.

Multiple ATVs also benefit from wall-mounted racks for gear, helmets, and accessories. Plan your ATV zone with the full complement of vehicles you own now, plus one more for what you’ll likely add.

Adding It All Up — Minimum Building Size for All Three

Here’s a real example. A Class C motorhome (28 feet long, 12-foot clearance needed), a 22-foot pontoon on a trailer (8.5 feet wide), and two side-by-side UTVs (6 feet wide each, 11 feet long). Running those numbers with proper clearance on all sides and between vehicles, you’re looking at a footprint of at least 40×60 to make everything work without feeling cramped. A 50×60 is more comfortable. A 40×80 with a front-to-back layout works well for this combination, too.

Going slightly bigger upfront — adding 10 feet of width or length at the time of order — typically adds $3,000 to $8,000 to the project. Adding on after the building is complete costs two to three times that and involves significant disruption.

How to Layout a Multi-Vehicle Metal Storage Building

Assign Space Before You Build:

The single most valuable thing you can do before ordering a building is draw your vehicle zones on paper. Not the floor plan of the building — the zones. Where does the RV live? Where does the boat go? Where do the ATVs park? Assign those zones first, then size the building around them.

• Zone 1 — The RV bay — drive-in, drive-out, full width and height clearance, positioned so the RV has a straight shot to the main door without requiring a complicated angle.
• Zone 2 — The boat bay — covered, with side access on at least one side, and enough room at the front for the trailer tongue to extend without blocking other vehicles.
• Zone 3 — The ATV and UTV area — compact, lower ceiling requirements, and ideally positioned with its own access door so you can get to the ATVs without moving the RV or boat every time.

Layout Option A — Side-by-Side Bay Configuration:

In a wide building — 50 feet or wider — all three vehicles park side by side across the width. The RV takes the largest bay, the boat sits in the middle, and the ATVs occupy the remaining width. This layout works well when all three vehicles are roughly the same length and the property has room for a wide footprint. Best for 50×60 or 60×60 buildings.

Layout Option B — Front-to-Back Sequential Layout

In a narrower, longer building, 40 feet wide, 80 feet or more in length, the RV parks in the front section, the boat in the middle, and the ATVs in the rear zone. The RV drives through a front door, the boat enters from the same door or a side door, and the ATVs access their zone through a separate rear or side entry. This layout works exceptionally well on narrow lots. Best for 40×80 or 40×100 footprints.

Layout Option C — Main Bay Plus Lean-To Combination

A main 40×60 building handles the RV, while a lean-to addition running along one side covers the boat and ATVs. The lean-to can be open on one or two sides, partially enclosed, or fully enclosed, depending on your weather and security needs. This is the most cost-effective configuration for properties where total width is limited, and it allows you to start with the RV building and add the lean-to as a second phase if budget requires it.

Door Configuration – Getting Every Vehicle In and Out Without Frustration

1. RV Door Requirements

The RV dictates your tallest and widest door. Minimum door width for a Class A or Class C motorhome is 14 feet — wider is better. Door height should match your eave height, minimum: 14 feet for most motorhomes, 16 feet for larger Class A rigs. Drive-through configuration — a door on the front wall and a matching door on the rear — makes RV entry far less stressful on a long vehicle. You drive in, you drive out, no backing required.

2. Boat Door Requirements

A boat on a trailer with the tow vehicle attached can be 8 to 10 feet wide, including mirrors. A 12-foot door handles most combinations with room to spare. Height requirement depends on what’s on top of the boat — a bare hull on a trailer typically clears a 10-foot door, but a T-top or wakeboard tower may need 12 to 14 feet. When in doubt, measure the boat’s tallest point before specifying the door height.

3. ATV and UTV Door Requirements

A dedicated roll-up door for the ATV and UTV zone — positioned on a side wall or end wall independent of the main RV door — is one of the most useful features in a multi-vehicle building. It means you can get to your ATVs any time without having to move the RV or the boat. A 10×10 roll-up handles all standard ATVs and UTVs with room to spare. Adding a walk-in personnel door alongside it handles foot traffic for gear, maintenance, and everyday access.

4. The Multi-Door Strategy

The most functional multi-vehicle buildings have three access points: a tall main door for the RV, a mid-height door for the boat, and a separate side or end door for the ATVs. One large main door for all three vehicles creates a bottleneck that becomes genuinely frustrating within the first month of use. Each vehicle should have its own clear path in and out.

What Type of Metal Building Works Best for Multi-Vehicle Storage?

1. Clear-Span Steel Buildings — The Best Choice for Mixed Storage

Interior columns are the enemy of flexible, multi-vehicle storage. A column in the wrong place means a vehicle that doesn’t fit, a layout that doesn’t work, or a building you’re constantly fighting against. Clear-span steel buildings carry the roof load entirely through the exterior walls — no interior columns anywhere in the footprint. The entire floor plan is yours to configure. At widths up to 80 feet, clear-span construction is completely achievable in standard steel building configurations.

2. Vertical Roof — Not Optional at This Size

At 40×60 and larger, a vertical roof isn’t an upgrade — it’s the correct specification. Vertical roof panels run from ridge to eave, channeling rain and snow cleanly off the building rather than allowing it to pool along horizontal seams. On a large-span building covering expensive vehicles, the long-term performance difference between vertical and standard roof panels is substantial. This is particularly important in climates that see meaningful weather, like needing an RV cover in Kansas, where spring storms are severe, or a metal carport in Alabama, where humidity and heavy rainfall accelerate rust on horizontal seams.

3. Wall Height Options

Twelve-foot walls work for boat carports and ATV storage. They’re marginal for RVs and will limit your options if you ever upgrade to a taller vehicle. Fourteen-foot walls are the practical minimum for any building that needs to accommodate a Class A motorhome or fifth wheel. Sixteen feet is the right call when your RV height is on the larger end or when you want the flexibility to store any RV you might own in the future.

How Much Does a Multi-Vehicle Metal Storage Building Cost?

Cost by Building Size and Configuration:

These are installed costs — structure, delivery, standard anchoring, and basic doors included:

• 40×60 with 14ft walls: $35,000 – $55,000
• 50×80 with 14ft walls: $55,000 – $80,000
• 40×80 with 16ft walls: $60,000 – $90,000
• 60×80 with 16ft walls: $80,000 – $120,000+

What Drives the Cost Up:

Wall height upgrades from 14 to 16 feet add $3,000 to $8,000, depending on building width. Multiple large roll-up doors add $1,200 to $2,500 per door over a standard opening. A full insulation package adds $4,000 to $12,000, depending on building size. The concrete slab adds $12,000 to $30,000 for large multi-vehicle footprints. Wind and snow load engineering upgrades add $800 to $3,000.

If budget is a constraint, many suppliers offer rent to own buildings with no credit check required. This allows you to get the full building you need immediately rather than compromising on size or features to hit a cash purchase price point.

Cost Comparison Table:

One Building vs. Three Separate Structures

A basic metal RV cover runs $8,000 to $14,000 installed. A 20×25 metal garage for a boat adds another $12,000 to $20,000. A 12×21 metal carport for the ATVs adds $4,000 to $7,000. That’s $24,000 to $41,000 for three separate structures – each with its own slab, permit, delivery charge, and installation crew. And none of them are as functional, secure, or weather-resistant as one properly engineered building with a correct door configuration and a clear-span interior. The combined building almost always costs less in total and performs significantly better.

Common Questions About Multi-Vehicle Metal Storage Buildings

1. What size metal building do I need for an RV and a boat?

A 40×60 with 14-foot walls handles a mid-size RV and a boat on a trailer comfortably. Add ATVs to that mix and a 50×60 or 40×80 gives you proper clearance without compromise.

2. Can I store a boat on a trailer inside a metal building?

Absolutely — and it’s one of the best things you can do for the boat’s longevity. UV exposure, rain, and humidity do more damage to a boat’s exterior and electronics than most owners realize. Covered storage dramatically extends the life of the hull, upholstery, and electronics.

3. What is the best metal building size for 3 vehicles?

For a typical RV, boat on a trailer, and two ATVs, a 40×60 with 14-foot walls is the minimum that works well. A 50×60 or 40×80 is more comfortable and allows for a dedicated workspace alongside the vehicles.

4. How wide does a metal building need to be to fit an RV?

The RV itself is typically 8 to 8.5 feet wide. The bay should be at least 14 feet wide to allow for door swing clearance, slide-out access, and comfortable movement around the vehicle. A 16-foot bay is better.

5. Is it cheaper to build one big metal building or two smaller ones?

One larger building is almost always less expensive in total. One slab, one permit, one delivery, one installation crew — versus paying all of those costs twice for two smaller structures that together provide less functionality.

6. Do I need a permit for a large metal storage building?

In virtually every US jurisdiction, yes. A building at 40×60 or larger requires a permit, site plan, and in most counties, an engineer-stamped certification. Check with your local building department before ordering — lead times for permits vary significantly by county and can affect your project timeline.

Build Once, Store Everything

One well-sized, well-configured metal building does what three separate structures can’t — store every vehicle under one roof, at a lower combined cost, with less land use and a single set of maintenance responsibilities.

The decisions that determine success happen before the building is ordered. Get the size right for all three vehicles with proper clearance. Plan your zones before you plan the floor. Spec the door heights and widths for your tallest and widest vehicle. Choose a vertical roof. And build once, because adding on is always more expensive than getting it right the first time.

Stop paying to store your vehicles in three different places. One building, planned correctly, does the job better and costs less in the long run.